| The principle that made gravity
hot water heat work (the fact that hot water will rise because it weighs less than cold
water) is the very thing Flo-Control valves are designed to stop. In the days of gravity heat, circulators werent available, so
installers used large pipes and let the water "turn" slowly on its own. But
nowadays, heating pipes are much smaller and every hot water system has a circulator.
The only time hot water should leave a modern boiler is
when a thermostat calls for the circulator to come on. If hot water is unchecked and
allowed to "gravity circulate" out of the boiler when the circulator is off, the
zone will overheat, and youll have a call-back.
So when you zone with circulators, youll use
Flo-Control valves to keep the hot water in the boiler. Lets take a look inside one. |

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How it works
This is B&Gs SA valve. "SA" stands for
"straight or angle," which means, for piping convenience, you can use either the
bottom or side tapping of the Flo-Control valve as an inlet. Naturally, theres only
one outlet.
As you can see, theres a weight inside the
Flo-Control valve. Its made of bronze, and it rides up on the valve stem whenever
the circulator operates. When the circulator shuts off, the bronze weight drops back down
onto the seat. The weight prevents gravity circulation when the zone is off.
To work, the Flo-Control valve must be installed with the
stem pointed toward the ceiling. You should always install the Flo-Control valve in the
supply piping because the system water is hottest at this point. There are times, however,
when you may need a second Flo-Control valve on the return side of the boiler because,
believe it or not, gravity circulation can occur in a single pipe! It doesnt need a
complete loop.
The hot and cold water just flow past each other in the
same pipe. Youll usually notice this "back end" gravity circulation if
theres a radiator directly above the boiler on the return side. Adding a second
Flo-Control valve to the return side of the zone piping will solve the problem every time. |
| If you turn the stem handle at
the top of the Flo-Control valve counter-clockwise, youll manually lift the bronze
weight from its seat. This will effectively take the Flo-Control valve "out of the
loop" and allow the boiler to gravity circulate.
The only time youd want to do this, however, is if
the circulator failed. Turning the stem handle and lifting the weight will give the folks
some heat during the time the circulator is down. But this is essentially a home owner
feature because, lets face it, if youre there on the service call, youre
usually going to fix the circulator, not bypass the Flo-Control valve.
Turning the stem handle has no effect on the system other
than to allow gravity circulation to take place. In other words, that stem handle
wont help you balance the systems flow rate or direct the flow in any other
way. Its only function is to raise and lower the bronze weight.
We mention this because weve seen guys try to make
the water flow a certain way by pointing the stem in this direction or that direction.
Thats not what it does. |

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A hydronic brain teaser
Heres a problem for you to consider.
Zone #1 is calling for heat, and Zone #2 is off. The last
radiator on Zone #2 is getting hot. Can the flow moving past the return tee connecting
Zone #1 and Zone #2 be "pulling" water down from Zone #2?
Give it some thought.
The answer is no, it cant! The reason is simply this. High
pressure must travel toward low pressure, and the circulator is "strongest" at
its discharge and "weakest" at its suction. For these reasons, its
impossible for "Zone #1" circulator to "suck" water down out of
"Zone #2."
Here, lets assign some numbers to the zone to show
the circulators relative strength at different places in the zone.
Lets say the strength of the circulator at its discharge flange is
"10." As water flows, friction eats up some of the circulators power. By
the time it reaches the return tee, the circulators strength is down to
"5." Now the water flows through the boiler and out the supply header. Its
strength at the supply tee leading to the two zones is down to "2."
Do you see what were getting at? For water to be
"sucked" out of Zone #2s return by Zone #1s circulator, water would
have to enter Zone #2s supply at the same time.
But look at the relative "strength" of the pump
at Zone #2s supply and return tapping. Its stronger at the return that it is
at the supply. So how could water flow that way? Water cant move from low pressure
to high pressure, can it? Of course not. And thats how you can know for sure that
Zone #1s circulator isnt "sucking" water down from Zone #2."
So why is the radiator getting hot? Its because Zone
#2s Flo-Control valve has dirt under its seat. Watch.
Can you see it? Some of the return water from Zone #1 is moving
backwards through Zone #2. How do you solve the problem? Just unscrew the top of the
Flo-Control valve and clean it out. Easy!
By the way, this is one of the reasons why it pays to flush
all hydronic systems after you install new equipment. Most installers rarely do this, but
that little bit of extra effort can save you a lot of nagging call-backs.
Lets take a look at some zone valves |